Hiroyasu Kayama of Bar Benfiddich in Tokyo explains Kochu Chomi, an innovative approach to pairing whisky and flavour.
Kochu Chomi Flavour Pairing – Photo © Cocktails & Bars
Food and spirit pairings are no longer uncommon yet it wasn’t long ago that pairing whisky and fish was unheard of. Now we’re pairing single malt with an array of main dishes, gin with cheese and cocktails accompany three course meals.
Hiroyasu Kayama, owner of the highly acclaimed Bar Benfiddich in Tokyo has an innovative approach to pairing flavour and whisky based on a Japanese culinary tradition.
What is Kochu Chomi
The concept of Kochu Chomi involves chewing on white rice and side dishes where the mixing of flavours occurs in the mouth. One such example starts by chewing on rice, then adding a piece of fish then pickled ginger in the mouth to create flavour. It brings a balance of picking on other dishes.
Speaking at an experiential seminar held in Sydney during Bar Week 2019, Hiroyasu Kayama puts it succinctly as “Mouth – Inside – Mix – Flavour”. He came up with the concept to highlight the characteristics of Nikka whisky.
The aim of incorporating Kochu Chomi into the drinking scene with a Japanese style pairing is to create a marble of flavours in the mouth. The food is not complete on its own, it needs the whisky to expand, enhance and highlight it and bring to the fore all the flavours.
Unlike when making a cocktail where the liquids are mixed then come together in a glass, the mixing happens in the mouth. “You take a bite of the food, chew but don’t swallow, take a sip, swirl in the mouth, then swallow”. The combination takes place with perfect timing followed by perfect contrast to create a marbling effect where until all the flavours unite in perfect balance.
The Marbling Effect
At the seminar, Kayama presented three Kochu Chomi experiences with Nikka Whisky (see photo above). Yoichi Kochu Chomi was presented with a fresh sage leaf, acacia raw honey, pink peppercorn. Miyagikyo Kochu Chomi consisted of a red grape, caramelised brown sugar, cinnamon powder while the Coffey Malt Kochu Chomi with dried fig, banana and “Minimal” dark chocolate from Japan was about a “mushy texture with some chocolate and crunch”.
Kayama is a little reluctant to share the creative process behind his combinations, citing that they’re “based on experience and feelings”. In arriving at the combination of ingredients, he starts with the spirit then looks for characteristics of what complement the flavours of the whisky. “You would also make great cocktails with those ingredients,” he adds.
