During their Australian tour, Andrew Ho and Bastien Ciocca from Hope & Sesame speakeasy bar in Guangzhou share the creative process behind their food-inspired cocktails and pairings.
Andrew Ho and Bastien Ciocca of Hope & Sesame – Photo Supplied
Hope & Sesame
Opened in March 2016, Hope & Sesame is the first speakeasy cocktail bar in Guangzhou, China, a joint venture between Andrew Ho and Bastien Ciocca. The co-owners who share a hotel management background first met while studying at Ecole Hôtelière de Lausanne in Switzerland.
Hope & Sesame is located behind a traditional Cantonese cafe in the neighbourhood of DongShanKou, a little out of the city centre. The intimate bar accommodates 36 persons and behind a secret door lies The Jazz Room, a cocktail lounge with nightly live jazz music. With a solid focus on food-inspired cocktails, their Spirits Kitchen is an innovative cocktail lab where guests can learn about the various techniques used to create their signature drinks.
Tools and Techniques for Food-Inspired Cocktails
With food-inspired cocktails that include French Fries Redistilled Potato Vodka with Apple Cider Vinegar and Salted Lillet Blanc; and Bourbon with Croissant Syrup and Nutella Bitters, the team makes use of various kitchen tools and techniques that include the following:
- A centrifuge is used for clarification, to flavour and infuse oils and to separate fats – a fast process which takes on average 20-30min with a high yield of extraction.
- A dehydrator is used to make cocktail garnishes as well as creating different textures such as flavoured dusts. Leftovers are dehydrated and put to use in cocktails therefore minimising waste.
- A sous vide cooker which provides controlled and precise heating is used for fast infusions and to obtain better purity of flavour. This method results in a better yield on bitter agents without the loss of alcohol content.
- Aside from fast chilling glassware, liquid nitrogen is used for flavour extraction as well making ice cream and sorbet cocktails. The method is also used to shock fresh herbs and reduce oxidation.
- A Pico Still is used for on-site distillation, fresh vapour infusions, fresh extractions and small batch recipe testing.
- A rotovap (rotary evaporator) has various uses such as flavour extraction, spice component removal (capsaicin molecules separation), wood extraction from aged spirits, making tinctures, clear fruit juices, clear infusions and low ABV cocktails bases.
- Fermentation (Kefir / Kvass / Scoby) is used to add another flavour dimension to fruit and beverages, amplifying flavours, giving richness, sourness and a light effervescence without the use of soda.
Best Flavour Pairings
When it comes to pairing flavours, the Hope & Sesame team has designed a flavour wheel grouped under sweet, nutty, rooty, spiced, citrusy, fruity, berries, floral, grassy and herbal. As a general rule, the following combinations have been found to work well together:
- Sweet pairs well with spice, bitter and sour but not with salty/umami.
- Sour pairs well with sweet, bitter and spice but not with salty/umami.
- Bitter pairs well with salty/umami, sweet and sour.
- Spice pairs well with sweet, sour and bitter but not with salty/umami.
- Salty/umami pairs well with bitter but not with sour or sweet.
Approach to Pairing Cocktails with Food
Hope & Sesame’s approach to pairing cocktails with food begins by taking inspiration from familiar dishes and pairing complementary or similar flavours such as the case of croissants and Nutella in a bourbon-based cocktail. Besides flavour, the oiliness and fatness of the food is another consideration as the beverage is often designed to cut through and cleanse the palate.
Temperature also plays an important part. If the food is cold like a ceviche, it is paired it with something light, cold and refreshing, while a rich dessert can be paired with a hot cocktail like a buttered rum in a presentation that engages all senses.
Choosing the right base spirit is another key step for successful pairings while taking inspiration from the existing dish. In the case of the 63 Degree Egg “Benedictine” Asparagus dish, Flor de Cana 5 yo rum was chosen for its richness and depth of flavour, mixed with sous-vide cooked sherry with Parma Ham and served with Amaretto Asparagus Granita.
The weight of the cocktail is another important consideration. Factors to take into account include if the drink light and crisp, heavy or round, long and low in ABV or short with high ABV. The next key point in cocktail pairing is the progression of the meal from light to strong. For example, starting with a Negroni style and moving to to a Martini style and finishing with an old fashioned would prove to be too spirit-forward for many guests. A more natural progression begins with a light, long and refreshing low ABV drink and veers towards more robust flavours and spirits.
Pairing Example
Tasmanian pepper crust Kangaroo loin & wilted Warrigal greens paired with Flor de Cana 4 Year Extra Seco, Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, raw beetroot juice, raspberry puree, lime juice over a large white chocolate and coconut coated ice cube – Mode Kitchen & Bar, Four Seasons Hotel Sydney
In the above example, the pairing was first separated into two components, the spirit which gives the strength and body, and the flavours such as tartness or fruitiness.
Traditionally, such a dish would paired with red wine so they sought to replicate the thought process in a vivid, red cocktail designed to add additional complementary flavours. Using the dry rum as a base spirit, mezcal and beets contribute smokiness and earthiness to the pepper-crusted meat, raspberry adds sourness cutting through the richness of the kangaroo, as well as red berry notes which go well with gamey red meats. The cocktail is served in a coupette over a large ice cube dipped in melted white chocolate and coconut oil. The ice component was chosen to chill the drink without dilution slowly adding notes of white cacao and coconut richness along with a textural element.
Pushing Innovation
If Peas in a Tube is any indication, pushing innovation and creativity while maintaining a fun element is at the forefront of Hope & Sesame. The cocktail is made in solid form using fresh ingredients and Xantan Gum, served from a toothpaste-like tube. “It creates confusion and fun among guests and invites them to think about different textures and cocktail presentations.”
