When Caffè Bartolo, the all-day Italian eatery by renowned hospitality operator Jared Merlino opened earlier this year in Surry Hills, it combined a food and drink offering that is distinctly Italian. Following the approval of their PSA licence, the venue has rebranded to Bartolo.
Grazia di Franco at Bartolo – Photo © Cocktails & Bars
Bartolo 2.0 is not just about dropping the word “caffè” from the name. Bartolo offers a solid bar and cocktail offering and the new licence grants guests the ability to enjoy a drink without having to dine.
After a brief closure for renovations, the venue is now entered through a curtained door, hinting at an intimate small bar vibe. Inside, there’s a clear distinction between the bar and dining area. The tiles have been replaced by a wooden floor that leads to the bar. The dining area has been carpeted in blue, a colour that complements the newly-painted main wall with family photographs. The bar itself is set up with two stations where everything sits at bar top level. Guests seated at the bar can watch the drinks being prepared, encouraging interaction with bartenders. Two round tables sit tall at bar height, adding to the intimacy of the venue.
Bartolo launched in summer with a vermouth-driven menu by Creative Director Grazia Di Franco (ex The Lobo Plantation, PS40). Her solid and creative cocktail list is inspired by the seasons and presented in an attractive notebook style menu with illustrations by Simon O’Corrigan. In Summer, she gave us an unforgettable suntan in a drink. The Winter menu is a clever combination of inspirations and interpretations of Sydney’s coldest season.
It’s So Foggy! draws inspiration from pungent forest notes. The tall drink brings together gin, vermouth, a trio of native myrtles – lemon cinnamon and anise – yellow Chartreuse and a pear cordial with a touch of malic acid for a sweet and sour note and brightness of fruit. The cloudy aesthetics add to the drinking experience and the citrus-forward drink brings a hint of astringency from the myrtle mix.
If Fog was a taste of the forest, Rain combines the earthiness of golden beetroot in a low ABV tequila-based drink with verjus for acidity and a combination of secco and bianco vermouth. The clear drink is beautifully presented in a stemmed glass with a nasturtium leaf glistening with “raindrops”. The cocktail is light and elegant to sip with perfectly balanced and clean flavours.
The presentation of Merino Wool draws inspiration from the colour of an Australian icon, Ugg boots. While the cocktail ingredients hint at being a flip, it’s dry and delicious. The marriage of sherry and vermouth with Cognac with a light almond nuttiness on the finish and egg white for texture is as comforting as slipping on your favourite jumper, or sliding your feet in Ugg boots for that matter. As the drink warms in glass, the flavours open up and the Cognac becomes more enhanced.
Fireplace is a hot drink presented in a Bodum glass with a purple shiso leaf that emulates a flame. Aromas of earl grey tea, cacao and bergamot hint at what’s to come. There’s a combination of Rinomato Aperitivo and Americano Bianco for bitterness, Calvados peaks mid way while the plum and tea linger on the back palate and deliver an almost tannic note. This is a complex and layered drink that reveals various flavours to the last drop.
If coffee is more appealing then take a Coffee Break. Not your average Espresso Martini, the drink combines Mancino Vermouth Chinato with Bruto Americano Bitter, coffee, strawberry and PS40 Bush Tonic to deliver a drink that errs on the bitter side with a satisfying dose of caffeine.
The one to finish on is Pancakes and Netflix, a cleverly crafted cocktail that tastes nothing like its ingredients but stands true to its name. Rum, sloe gin, coconut water, orange sherbet made from oranges used in the kitchen, leftover pastries from the morning and freeze dried raspberries on the glass are ingredients that dance together on the palate to create flavours you won’t find elsewhere.
Bartolo is open daily from 7am to midnight.
Click through the following pages to view a selection of Bartolo’s winter cocktails.
